Best restaurants in Montreal? Top chefs say these are the places to go
Chef-couple Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp pick the best restaurants in Montreal — Photo courtesy of Nicole Guglielmo
Chef-couple Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp may be rising stars in Philadelphia, but they know Montreal. The two rose through the ranks cooking in the Canadian city’s food scene and fell in love. Now, they’re quickly becoming two of the most celebrated chefs in North America.
Together, they run their always-booked Philadelphia restaurants under their Libbie Loup Hospitality brand. Shulman, executive chef of Her Place Supper Club, was a James Beard Award nominee and a Food & Wine Best New Chef of 2023. Kemp, executive chef of My Loup, graced the cover of Bon Appetit’s Best New Restaurants 2024 issue.
Although settled in Philly, they can’t shake their deep love for the best restaurants in Montreal. After all, My Loup is a love letter to Quebec’s largest city known for its diverse and delicious food. Here are some of the duo’s favorite places to eat in Montreal, from restaurants to bars, bakeries, and markets.
Restaurant L’Express
This best restaurant in Montreal serves classic French bistro fare — Photo courtesy of Mathieu Pothier
Part of Montreal’s charm is how it can feel like Paris. That’s especially true at Restaurant L’Express, the most classic of classic bistros and one of the best restaurants in Montreal. Shulman calls it one of the places she visited most in Montreal.
“A timeless classic open until the very late hours, perfect for a nightcap and a snack or a leisurely Sunday lunch and everything in between,” she says. Shulman’s favorites at the 40-plus-year-old institution? The bone marrow starter, the beef tartare, and the roast beef (when it’s on the menu). She calls these dishes “non-negotiable,” along with the fantastic wine list and never-ending jar of cornichons.
Joe Beef
Joe Beef is one of Montreal’s best restaurants, according to the chefs (and everyone) — Photo courtesy of Sarah Maiellano
Shulman and Kemp worked at Joe Beef, a French institution that became famous after its starring role in Anthony Bourdain’s “Parts Unknown.” Shulman calls Joe Beef “the most iconic in everything … a restaurant with soul and life, offering a dining experience for the ages. Gluttony and generosity are on tap.”
At this warm and charming restaurant, seasonality and ingredients from nearby Atwater market guide the ever-changing menu. Some dishes, like lobster spaghetti and perfectly cooked steak, are mainstays. Dessert, like a pistachio layer cake, is served on lovely grandma-style china.
Vin Papillon
Montreal restaurants like Vin Papillon create menus with the seasons — Photo courtesy of Alison Slattery / Two Food Photographers
A sister restaurant to the city’s iconic Joe Beef, Vin Papillon is a boisterous destination for natural wine and creative small plates. Insiders like Shulman call it “vin pap.” She appreciates the restaurant’s vegetable focus and that the “outdoor terrace in the summer comes alive with BBQ smoke and fairy lights.”
The menu may only be in French, but don’t let that scare you off. The couple says to trust your server or bartender to give you a rundown of the dishes on offer that day. And don’t leave without trying the shaved ham and cheddar, and whatever vegetables are in season, which could be spring asparagus, radishes with butter, or seared maitakes.
St.-Viateur Bagels
St. Viateur creates some of Montreal’s most iconic bagels — Photo courtesy of Alice Gao / Tourisme Montréal
With its large Jewish population, Montreal is known for its excellent bagels, which have become a style all their own. Kemp’s favorite spot is St.-Viateur Bagels, which is open 24 hours a day. “They’re baked fresh and sweet and chewy,” Kemp says. “And they make a great snack after a busy dinner service.”
At the busy flagship location on St.-Viateur West, you can order loose bagels and pick up bespoke toppings and spreads in a cold case. Local goat cream cheese is especially lovely. Holocaust survivor Myer Lewkowicz founded this iconic spot, which has been going strong since 1957. There are a few locations today.
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Mon Lapin
For the past two years, Canada’s 100 Best magazine has called Mon Lapin the best restaurant in the country. According to Kemp, getting a reservation is challenging but worth the effort.
“The owners, Marco, Vanya, and Jess, are some of the most talented people I know,” he says. “They cook seriously creative and delicious food without any pretension. The wine list is also world-class. One of my favorite places not just in Montreal, but ever.”
Not available online, the menu changes daily with seasonal ingredients; let your server guide you.
Jean-Talon and Atwater markets
Jean-Talon market is a chef’s paradise in Montreal — Photo courtesy of Aline Vinel / Tourisme Montréal
Two fresh food markets in different corners of this big city will inspire your senses. Shulman says Jean-Talon and Atwater markets are spectacular places to explore. “You’ll find Quebec’s gorgeous produce and everything you need to cook or have a proper picnic,” she adds.
She describes Jean Talon as a chef’s paradise and recommends checking the Italian neighborhood surrounding it. At these markets, you’ll find more than fruits and vegetables. Look out for butchery and charcuterie stalls, a ton of maple products, and ready-to-eat meals, plus cocktails. For example, at Jean Talon’s al fresco food court, a seafood purveyor shucks some of the freshest oysters.
Au Pied de Cochon
A French phrase that translates to “pig’s foot” or “pig’s trotters,” Kemp calls Au Pied de Cochon “an iconic temple of foie gras and everything over the top.” At this 20-plus-year-old brasserie, one of the best restaurants in Montreal, an entire section of the menu is dedicated to foie gras. It goes in soup, poutine, terrine, and other creative and international dishes, like sushi.
The restaurant is also known for its “duck in a can,” which combines several indulgent ingredients—foie, bacon, and duck with brown butter, rich celeriac puree, and cabbage — into one mold. Yes, it’s served in a can.
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Cabane d’à Côté, Mirabel
The sister restaurant to Au Pied de Cochon, Cabane d’à Côté, is located in a suburb about 45 minutes west of Montreal. Kemp says the drive is well worth it.
“Vincent Dion Lavallée is so talented,” he explains. “His food is rich and delicious but also fun. There is something special about sitting in a garden surrounded by vegetables they grow and harvest themselves. Amanda and I had one of the best meals of our lives here.”
Translated to “Cabin Next Door,” the restaurant is on the grounds of a sugar shack, where maple syrup is made. Summer is an ideal time to go, and reservations open in mid-spring. Check the restaurant’s Instagram for updates.
The Coldroom
The Coldroom is known for super creative cocktails and speakeasy vibes — Photo courtesy of Sarah Maiellano
Speakeasy vibes rule at The Coldroom in charming Old Montreal. Look for the rubber duck logo and large black door. You’ll ring a bell and be guided into a long, narrow, subterranean den with a beautiful wooden bar. “The drinks are awesome, and the vibe is perfect for any time of day or night,” Kemp says.
Once a 19th-century cold storage warehouse, the space is known for its labor-intensive, ultra-creative drinks. There are plenty of boozy options, like one that combines toasted black sesame with coffee, vanilla, salted honey, and bourbon, or non-alcoholic options like the Morning Beat with cold brew, non-alcoholic vermouth, strawberry tarragon syrup, and tonic.
Aliment Viens
It’s fair to describe Montreal as a meat-loving city, whether it’s Schwart’z iconic pastrami sandwiches or a proper steak. When it comes to charcuterie, Shulman singles out talented charcutier/butcher Phil Vien. His Aliment Viens offers house-cured meat products, expertly butchered cuts, and quick-to-cook dinners like meatballs in tomato sauce.
Shulman recommends “fat-capped pork chops, a perfect paté de canard, or one of their gorgeous whole-cured muscles.”
Arthur’s Nosh Bar
Kemp says the pancakes at Arthur’s Nosh Bar makes it one of the best restaurants in Montreal — Photo courtesy of Rashad Bedier
At Arthur’s, the pancakes are technically Ukrainian syrniki. These fluffy treats are infused with cottage cheese, soaked in maple syrup, and sprinkled with fancy salt. On weekends, you can get them topped with fried chicken, fried eggs, and beef bacon.
“I don’t even like pancakes, and these live rent-free in my head,” Shulman says. “Everything here is fun and luxurious, but most importantly, delicious.” Expect long waits at peak times at this Jewish brunchery. It’s worth it when the latke special comes with caviar, smoked salmon, avocado, and sour cream.
