4-Day Istanbul Itinerary for 2024 ✔️ 100% Experience-Based

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A person in a red polka dot dress holds a straw hat while looking at the Galata Tower on a sunny street with shops and pedestrians.

Headed to Istanbul? How nice! Istanbul is one of my favorite megacities in the world.

From casual city-hopping to 2-day layovers to COVID quarantine escapes, I’ve checked Istanbul off my bucket list many times. I have just the details you need to plan your Istanbul itinerary, especially if this is your first trip!

Now you’re about to visit a place that’s almost TWICE the size of New York and London COMBINED, so use my insider knowledge on what attractions to see (and in which order!), how to get around, and where to stay. I share my detailed, tried-and-true 4-day itinerary across this magical city full of history, topped with some exclusive tips I wish I had known before visiting!

NOTE: Book your tickets and hotels in advance. 17.5 million people visit this megapolis every year, so you can imagine how fast things get booked here!

Quick Picks for Your Stay

Can’t stay till the end? Check out this quick summary of my 4-day Istanbul itinerary:

Day 1: Sultanahmet district
Day 2: Grand Bazaar + Dolmabahce + Taksim
Day 3: Karakoy + Asian side
Day 4: Fener + Balat

These are Istanbul’s best hotels in the Sultanahmet district (where I recommend you stay), along with the estimated budget for the trip:

Cost: €150 per day (accommodation, transport, food); €150 for the major attractions; €1800 for 4 days for 2 people, all costs included
Best luxury hotel: Mest Hotel Istanbul Sirkeci
Best value for money: Hotel Saba
Best affordable accommodation: Saruhan Hotel

And these are the best things to book in advance for your trip:

Check out this handy map that highlights all the stops in this 4-day itinerary:

Day 1: Sultanahmet area

A person walks toward the Blue Mosque in Istanbul, with trees and people lining the cobblestone path.

Istanbul was the capital city of 2 of the world’s mightiest empires for over 1,500 years: the Byzantine Empire for 1,066 years and the Ottoman Empire for 469 years! No other city in the world is as full of history!

Istanbul’s glory mostly comes from its unique strategic location between the East and the West. It’s the only city in the world that lies on 2 continents, Europe and Asia!

This majestic history perfectly matches the landscape, straddling the Bosphorus Strait (a crucial trade passage between the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara). With all its hills, the iconic Golden Horn (a natural waterway spreading West of the Bosphorus Strait, separating the historic area from the rest of the city), and even a few islands, Istanbul has unparalleled natural beauty!

So, where do you even begin to explore such a dazzling place? Well, Netflix’s Rise of the Empires: Ottoman is a pretty good start, and then once you land in Istanbul, start from the Sultanahmet district!

Sultanahmet is basically the old town of Istanbul, and the Sultanahmet Square (map) marks its very center. It’s where 3 major attractions are located: Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and the Basilica Cistern.

author of the post wearing sunglasses pets two cats resting on a stone ledge near a fence and greenery.

This square used to be the main hippodrome and one of the liveliest sporting venues in the entire Byzantine Empire, and you can clearly tell that by its shape if you just look at the map!

Honestly, this area is so big and lively, you could easily spend all 4 days here without getting bored. During my 2 first visits, I literally spent all my time here. But you’d be missing out on a lot if you repeated this. I crafted this itinerary so you can still see the main attractions in Sultanahmet (without rushing!) and get to other important parts of the city!

INSIDER TIP: Start your day as early as possible to avoid crowds that are guaranteed everywhere in Sultanahmet, especially around the 3 main attractions. Oh, and bring comfortable shoes! You’ll be doing a lot of walking!

NOTE: For all attractions with paid entrance, you can buy tickets in booths on the spot or get skip-the-line tickets online. We bought a ticket package that included visits to multiple attractions (here’s an example with a tour, but you can also get cheaper ones without tours on-site of every attraction).

Accumulated cost for all the attractions on this list is around €150 per person.

1. Indulge in Turkish breakfast

A table is set with flatbread, a large tray of dishes including rice with eggs, tomatoes, yogurt, pickles, olives, and drinks, all placed on a patterned tablecloth.

Kahvalti (that’s “breakfast” in Turkish) always makes me excited to go back to Turkey! Nothing beats starting a well-deserved vacation with the most fantastic breakfast containing everything and more.

This breakfast fit for a king consists of eggs, cheese, sausage, olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, fruit, jam, honey, Turkish tea, freshly squeezed juice, and I probably forgot to mention something! Could you tell I’m a sucker for hearty breakfasts already?

TIP: Istanbul has an endless list of hotels and accommodations (over 6,000), so naturally, not all will include breakfast. When searching for a place, make sure it has that “Fabulous breakfast included” green label on Booking (I picked the best ones for all budgets at the end of the article, so no worries)!

I recommend having breakfast at your accommodation since it’s almost guaranteed to be delicious. But if you want to go all in, there are amazing restaurants and breakfast spots in the area with the most beautiful morning views of the attractions. I mean, just check out the Instagram star of Seven Hills Restaurant (map)!

2. Hagia Sophia

The writer of the post with her husband take a selfie in a park with a historic domed building and minarets in the background.

After the Turkish breakfast, you’ll have all the energy you need for your first day of sightseeing!

Hagia Sophia (map), a crown jewel of the area, was built as a Christian church in the 6th century. For over 1,000 years, it was the greatest Christian church in existence.

After the Ottomans conquered Constantinople in 1453, Hagia Sophia was turned into a mosque, and in 1935, it officially became a museum. Everyone was free to visit and enjoy this marvel of architecture until 2020.

Then, sadly, In 2020, Turkish authorities made a controversial decision to proclaim Hagia Sophia a mosque again. Now, only Muslims and Turkish citizens can enter the main downstairs area of Hagia Sophia. Tourists can only visit the 2nd floor, which has some nice Byzantine frescoes.

The news made me really sad because I can still remember visiting the downstairs part (which is the most important and beautiful) not that long ago. Nothing beats standing under Hagia Sophia’s gigantic dome, contemplating the sheer size of the building and thinking of all the history it holds.

Now that this area is off-limits for most tourists, I’m not even sure getting in is worth it anymore. When I last visited in 2022 during Ramadan, there indeed were only locals waiting to get in for a prayer. Whether you decide to visit the indoors or not, take some time to contemplate Hagia Sophia’s outer beauty.

NOTE: Entrance to all mosques, including Blue Mosque, is free. Hagia Sophia is different because it’s both a museum and a mosque.

PRICE: €25

3. Blue Mosque

The writer of the post in a blue headscarf stands inside a large, ornately decorated mosque with red patterned carpet and domed ceilings.

Blue Mosque (map) is a giant 17th-century mosque in Sultanahmet Square commissioned by Sultan Ahmed I (see where the square got its name?). The sultan ordered this mosque to be built beside Hagia Sophia on purpose, to surpass the church’s grandeur and beauty.

As a result, Blue Mosque has over 20,000 hand-crafted ceramic tiles and a whopping 200 stained glass windows! Beyond impressive, gotta give it to the sultan!

People gather at the entrance of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. author of the post in a yellow skirt and blue headscarf stands in the foreground.

I remember just sitting in the Blue Mosque on the carpet floor, contemplating the light playing with the stained windows while locals sat down for prayer. It was such a serene moment, so different from the hustle and bustle of the surrounding square.

NOTE: Dress modestly when entering this and all other mosques. For women, cover your head, shoulders, and legs. If you don’t have suitable clothing, they have scarves and skirts at the entrance you can use. For men, have long pants.

LOCAL TIP: Visiting during Ramadan? Head to Sultanahmet Square to see thousands of people having their iftar (first meal after the fast) as the call for prayer resonates from the Blue Mosque! Or check my video here!

4. Basilica Cistern

Interior of a dimly lit, pink-illuminated ancient underground cistern with rows of columns reflected in the water on the floor.

Basilica Cistern (map) is a huge underground water reservoir dating from the 6th century. It used to be the main water storage facility for the Byzantine and Ottoman royal palaces and surrounding areas.

During my visit, I remember I wasn’t really that thrilled to descend into the damp, dark undergrounds when we could walk in sunny Istanbul. But thanks to my husband who insisted we go because this cistern is amazing!

The place has over 300 marble columns (!!), it’s so epic that even one James Bond movie was shot here! The highlight is definitely Medusa’s head sculpture. It took me a while to spot it (it takes some walking through the cistern halls to get to it) but once I did, it was an iconic sight.

NOTE: There are around 50 steps that go down and up in the basilica, and no elevator. The place is definitely not wheelchair and stroller-friendly.

PRICE: €21.50

5. Grab a quick dessert

A colorful Turkish delight and dessert shop display with various sweets, candies, and packaged goods on shelves and a counter.

Do you have a sweet tooth? If so, Istanbul will be a paradise for you! They have so many authentic dessert shops that you could literally go sweet-tasting until you can no longer take it.

Hafiz Mustafa 1864 is the most popular brand with stores across Istanbul, but here’s an easily accessible one from this point of the itinerary (map). This one usually has big lines, but also they always have fresh and beautifully-looking desserts.

We’d always buy a selection of Turkish delights and baklavas for our families in Hafiz Mustafa! They have the cutest gift packages.

So just grab a quick bite of whatever catches your eye and pair it with Turkish coffee for the full experience! You should be ready to continue the itinerary in no time.

6. Topkapi Palace

author of the post stands in front of a historical gate with two towers. Other people walk around, and trees are in the background.

Topkapi Palace (map) used to be the home of Ottoman sultans (rulers of the empire) for over 400 years. A visit here was the ultimate highlight of my very first trip to Istanbul!

Basically, all the big thinking and decision-making in the mightiest empire of the world used to take place here! Can you imagine what these walls could tell if they could talk?

You can walk through the picturesque hallways and rooms the sultans used on a daily basis, see the harem where their women used to stay, or just breathe some fresh air in the lovely gardens.

HIDDEN GEM: Walk to the Terrace of the Kiosk of Sultan Ibrahim I for the most stunning views of the Bosphorus! The picture I took here was my Facebook profile picture for years! The terrace is located at the northeastern end of the Fourth Courtyard (you’ll see it on all palace maps available on-site).

PRICE: €45

7. Bosphorus cruise

A ferry sails on the water with a cityscape in the background, featuring historic buildings and a prominent tower.

Have you really been to Istanbul if you haven’t done a Bosphorus cruise? Well, my friend, sunset time is just the perfect moment for that (or really any other time, to be honest).

As you approach the water on both sides of the Galata Bridge, but mostly from the Sultanahmet side, you’ll hear people shouting and inviting people to go on boat rides. They promote various cruise services but often overcharge. It wouldn’t hurt to do some pre-planning just so you make the most out of the experience.

Check out this quick table, it’ll tell you everything you need to know about the best cruises I recommend in Istanbul:

Cruise type	Duration	Features	Price range	Ideal for	Best deal
Sehir Hatlari* short cruise	2 hours	Basic experience, public ferry	US$3-5	Quick tours, budget travelers	On-site
Sehir Hatlari long cruise	6 hours	Stops at villages, lunch break, public ferry	US$10-15	Casual exploring, independent adventurers	On-site
Yacht sunset cruises	2.5 hours	Yachts cruises, drinks	US$10+	Romantic occasions, small groups	Yacht Cruise
Evening dinner cruise	Up to 4 hours	Entertainment, dinner, drinks, night views	US$25+	Couples, cultural experience	Dinner Cruise
Luxury private yacht cruises	Up to 3 hours	Fully exclusive and customizable	US$140+	VIP experience, seclusion	Luxury Cruise

*Sehir Hatlari is Istanbul’s official ferry company with ticket booths on the left dock of Galata Bridge in Eminou (map). Book on-spot, depart ASAP, very smooth service.

The writer of the post with her husband take a selfie by the water with a cityscape and seagulls in the background.

When we first visited Istanbul, we actually fell for the street hustlers. This one guy took us some 400 meters from where we found him and made us wait. It all looked really weird, but in the end, more tourists joined us, and not long after, they took us to a boat.

In the end, we had a really lovely experience. The cruise lasted for exactly 1 hour, and it ran along the Golden Horn up to the giant suspension bridge that connects Europe and Asia (map) on the Bosphorus.

I remember the views of the bridge were absolutely phenomenal, so I wholeheartedly recommend the experience. But you should definitely pre-arrange a cruise or book with Sehir Hatlari right on the docks rather than do the street hustler thing.

8. Dinner in Sultanahmet

If you didn’t take the evening dinner cruise, then treat yourself to a nice traditional dinner in one of the many restaurants in the area!

But what should you eat for dinner? I say go for meat if you eat it, the Turks are masters at it! I recommend Adana kebab if you eat hot, and Urfa kebab for a milder taste. Took me a while to learn that one is hot and the other is not, they look almost the same!

Check out these places for the best dining experience:

Turgut Kebab Restaurant (map) – rooftop restaurant, live traditional music, the best kebab, and the loveliest atmosphere; no better way to end the evening than a rooftop place with a view
Ararat Terrace Restaurant (map) – best views, food, and desserts, all in 1 package

NOTE: Usually you can just stroll around and always find restaurants with plenty of free tables. Avoid places that have people shouting at you from the outside and those without prices on the menu.

9. Hookah place or rooftop bar to end the night

A person relaxes on a cushioned seat under vibrant, multicolored string lights in a cozy, tent-like space with a visible hookah on the table.

The Sultanahmet is so filled with authentic hookah lounges, but also plenty of rooftop cafés. I say go for one last drink before bed just to get a better glimpse of Istanbul nightlife, it doesn’t even have to be that long!

I LOVE this secret hookah spot just off Ticarethane Street (map)! Hardly any tourist makes it here because you have to enter this secluded passageway off the main pedestrian street (that is FILLED with amazing cafés and shops anyway), and you’ll often find locals chilling here in the evening.

Sit on the cushions, enjoy the beautiful decorations, grab some desserts (I had lemon cheesecake, it was a bit too sour for my taste), and a hookah (they’re really mild in taste). We spent 2 hours here and didn’t even realize how fast time flew by!

If you’re into something with a view over Bosphorus (because can you ever really get enough of those?) My Terrace Café and Restaurant (map) is a nice place where you can also have a hookah with drinks and desserts!

Day 2: Fatih & Beyoglu districts

Scenic view of Istanbul's skyline with the Galata Tower prominent among the mix of traditional and modern buildings, as seen from across the Bosphorus

On the second day of the itinerary, head to the Fatih district that borders Sultanahmet to experience Istanbul’s magical markets. Then, cross the Golden Horn to the Beyoglu neighborhood (still in Europe!!) for a modern Istanbul experience.

As usual, have breakfast at your hotel, and then hit the road! The first part of the itinerary is entirely walkable, and then you’ll take a tram to get to Dolmabahce.

We always use the Istanbulkart for travels across Istanbul; it’s cheap and works on all public transport! Get yours from the vending machines or ticket booths at the nearest metro, train, or bus stop, top it up with a desired sum, and enjoy getting around. The card costs US$1.50, and one ride is US$0.44 at the time of writing.

NOTE: You’re guaranteed to see ads for Istanbul E-pass or The Mega Pass that grant access to all attractions + public transport (€145 for 2 days, €225 for 5 days, etc.). I honestly don’t recommend these cards because they’re just not worth it. They tend to mislead you into believing you’re saving money when you’re really not.

Now, back to our itinerary!

1. Suleymaniye Mosque

Interior of a grand mosque with ornate domed ceilings, intricate patterns, and red carpeted floors. Large chandeliers hang from above.

Istanbul has over 3,000 mosques, but none of them are like Suleymaniye Mosque (map). Commissioned by the Ottoman Empire’s longest-reigning sultan, Suleiman the Magnificent, this mosque is the ultimate symbol of Ottoman imperial power.

The Suleymaniye Mosque is considered one of the greatest works of Mimar Sinan, the most legendary architect of the Ottoman Empire!

BOOK TIP: The Architect’s Apprentice by Elif Shafak is a must-read if you’d like to learn how Sinan’s works actually came to life, or just to transport yourself to the 16th-century Ottoman Empire! I cried, laughed, and utterly enjoyed this read.

Visit the Suleymaniye Mosque first thing in the morning (it opens at 9 AM) before the tourist crowds beat you to it.

TIP: You can also visit Suleymaniye Mosque on a guided segway tour of the old town!

2. Grand Bazaar & Egyptian bazaar

A bustling spice and souvenir shop with colorful pottery, plates, and various spices on display. Several people browse the items in the well-lit, ornate interior.

Grand Bazaar (map) is one of the world’s largest covered markets with over 4,000 shops. It’s a must for every tourist visiting Istanbul! Here, you’ll find everything from clothes, Turkish stained glass lamps, souvenirs, spices, kids’ toys, soaps, carpets, and anything in between.

The Bazaar is just a short walk from the Suleymaniye Mosque, so it’s super convenient to visit both.

As you could probably guess, most of the souvenirs here are overpriced, so either be ready to haggle or just accept paying more, it’s an iconic place after all! I can’t blame you either because I myself always end up getting something here!

TIP: If you’d rather not pay more than you have to, just get outside the bazaar to the neighboring alleys. You’ll find shops with better deals! It’s also where locals buy stuff!

But more than focusing on shopping, just enjoy the experience and soak in the views and aromas. Maybe try some desserts for free (or try rejecting them from the pushy sellers) and definitely take tons of pictures!

As you start walking from the Grand Bazaar toward the Golden Horn, you’ll pass by another legendary (but much smaller) market, the Egyptian Bazaar (map). It’s the place to be for spice shopping! Just don’t buy too many things, you have a whole lot to explore today!

3. Dolmabahce Palace

Ornate period room with canopy bed, elegant chandelier, patterned sofa, armchairs, and a decorated table with vase.

Dolmabahce Palace (map) is the younger sister of Topkapi Palace. The sultans of the Ottoman Empire moved their home here around 1856. They wanted a more modern palace that could accommodate all the luxuries that Topkapi was not capable of providing (it was over 400 years old, after all).

author of the post stands in front of an open marble gate by a waterfront, wearing a striped shirt, jeans, and pink shoes, holding the gate's post with one hand. The sky is overcast.

Just next to the Egyptian Bazar, you’ll see a tram station (this one). Wait for the T1 tram that’ll take you directly to the Dolmabahce Palace. Just validate your Istanbulkart on the small screen to enter the station and wait for the next tram. It’s a quick ride, and the trams usually run every 5 minutes.

Now I’ve been to Dolmabahce and let me tell you, France’s Versailles has some serious competition!

Dolmabahce Palace features 14 tons of gold on its ceilings and a single chandelier that weighs 4 tons and is lit by 750 bulbs!

Plus, it’s 200 years younger than Versailles, so the opulent luxury here has a more modern touch! And don’t get me started on the stunning Bosphorus views thanks to the waterfront location (a picture by this giant white door is a MUST, map)!

There were no lines at all when we visited, so you can just get there and buy your ticket on the spot. We also used audio guides for a small extra fee. But if you like to have everything pre-arranged, you can get a skip-the-line ticket.

PRICE: €28

5. Taksim Square

Night view of a lit mosque with two minarets, surrounded by people and red flags, under a cloudy sky.

Taksim (map) is a huge square in Istanbul’s Beyoglu district, and I can easily say it’s the center of modern-day Istanbul. The central metro line and all buses from the airport stop here, so naturally, it’s another very popular area to stay.

A casual stroll from Dolmabahce to Taksim takes no more than 20 minutes, so I recommend you walk here (public transport will take just as much).

On the very square sits a brand new mosque (map) that just so happened to open its doors during one of our visits in May 2021. The mosque also has beautiful illuminations at night, so it’s worth visiting any time!

Of course, the main draw of the area is the 1.4 km (0.9 mi) Istiklal Street (map) that runs South from Taksim Square toward Galata Tower. It’s the main commercial and pedestrian street in town (with the exception of the slow, nostalgic red tram that runs the street’s perimeter just for tourists).

I always spend hours here hopping from one store to another, but I just can’t help it! There are too many good bookshops not to be missed here! But whether you’re into clothing, souvenirs, or food tasting, you’ll find what your heart desires in the hundreds of stores and cafés on Istiklal.

TIP: Come back to Istiklal Street in the evening to experience Istanbul’s nightlife in all its glory! Hoards of people, flashy lights, street performers, late-night bars, hookah places, and so much more fun stuff!

6. Sunset by the promenade near Galata Bridge

View of Galata Bridge in Istanbul with restaurants and people walking along the top. The sky is cloudy, and the water appears choppy.

Now, as a first-timer in Istanbul, literally any spot where you can catch the sunset is an experience. It’s just lovely everywhere. But after dozens of sunset hunting sessions, I can proudly say that sunset by the promenade just by Galata Bridge (here’s the location) is unbeatable!

The thing is that everyone usually climbs the bridge for the nice views, and that’s also really cool. But on the promenade, you can actually sit, grab some snacks and drinks, and enjoy it all without knocking elbows with strangers!

Plus, with the birds flying around and the city’s iconic mosques and bridges skyline, you’re guaranteed to make some of the most perfect sunset pictures!

Of course, don’t miss the walk across the Galata Bridge (map), it’s really fun with all its flashy restaurants. I don’t recommend eating here, though, as most of the places are tourist scams.

7. Galata Tower

Galata Tower in Istanbul, with a conical roof and ancient stone structure, stands against a clear blue sky. A small cluster of colorful balloons is visible at the bottom right.

The iconic Galata Tower (map) was built in 1348 as a dungeon and a fire-spotting tower. It’s now one of the landmarks of Istanbul, and it’s another must-visit in town.

The top of the tower is around 66 meters (219 feet) high, and the views are incredible!

I’m not sure what I loved more, the views from the top or the most romantic cobblestone streets and authentic shops around it.

I recommend you climb the tower for views after sunset rather than before because 1) it’s what I did and absolutely loved it, and 2) I can imagine the crowds during sunset would be insane. They are open until 10 PM, so you’ll have just enough time.

There’s an elevator that takes you to the 6th or 7th floor of the tower, and then you take the stairs to reach the top floor with the 360-degree panoramic balcony.

PRICE: €30

8. Go back to Istiklal for nightlife + dinner

A night view of the Istanbul skyline features illuminated mosques and boats on the water, reflecting city lights.

Just as I suggested above, feel free to walk back to Istiklal (it’ll be just behind you) to experience the nightlife, it’s quite an experience! Thousands of people walk here in the evening!

There are amazing restaurants just in the streets parallel to Istiklal (the ones on the very street are mostly touristy, and you can expect to pay way more).

We once stayed in a hotel just parallel to Istiklal (Mukarnas Taksim Hotel), and the small streets around it had tons of authentic restaurants. I could tell because we were the only tourists among all the locals! Super refreshing!

Feel free to explore, but we especially liked Antakya Mutfagi (map) and Bawaci Meat House (map).

Oh, and leave some room for the dessert. Keyfeder Kunefe Katmer (map) is an amazing place for traditional kunefe! You can get a glimpse in my Instagram post here!

Day 3: Karakoy + Asian side

A mosque with two minarets stands against a blue sky. Trees with autumn leaves surround the building. People walk nearby, and a cityscape is visible in the distance.

One of the best-known facts about Istanbul is that it’s the only city in the world that lies on two continents. Well, on Day 3, you should be ready to explore the Asian side!

There are multiple ways to reach this area. We took the regular boat that’s part of the public transport system (from the Eminonu ferry port), but there are also cruises for tourists.

I loved our boat ride because it was really an authentic experience without the crowds. Plus, the ride was super cheap (same price as bus or metro rides, US$0.44), and you get to admire all the same views as on those expensive cruises! I wanted to ride that boat back and forth all the time just for the views!

1. Explore the Karakoy area

A bustling street scene with people walking along cobblestones, flanked by colorful buildings, shops, and street art under a bright blue sky.

Just in case you haven’t had enough time to stroll by the Karakoy area yet, a nice leisurely stroll is a must here. Just cross the Galata Bridge from Sultanahmet and turn right immediately, and you’ll enter a really nice promenade (map).

Also, it’s quite an experience to be near the Galata Bridge in the morning, as this is when its iconic fishermen are most active!

FUN FACT: Istanbul’s fishermen are an integral part of the city’s culture! One of my first lessons in Turkish was about fish, fishermen, fishing boats, etc. Once you’re in Karakoy, you begin to grasp why that is!

2. Take a boat to the Asian side

a large white boat with people on it in the water

Now, once you’re done taking in all the views, go back across Galata Bridge and hop on a boat that’ll take you to the Asian side.

Take the ferry from Eminou port (map) with direction to Uskudar. You want to take the boat line marked “Kadikoy Uskudar Hatti” on Google Maps (map)! Just scan your Istanbulkart on the small screen, and you’ll enter the closed waiting terminal.

Wait for the next ferry (they have multiple hourly departures), and if in doubt, double-check with staff or people nearby that you’re on the right terminal. It was confusing for us as well, but a couple sitting next to us told us we were in the right spot.

Once we were on the ferry, I regretted not having some bread with me because seagulls were flying on top of our heads, and the locals were feeding them! It was such a lovely sight. So if you’re up for the experience, you know what to do! Or just sit and admire the beautiful views for around 20 minutes of the ride!

As you disembark from the ferry on the Asian side, just walk towards the busy area around Yeni Valide Mosque (map). You’ll immediately see the striking difference between the 2 sides, with the Asian side being much more local and slightly less hectic.

3. Dessert with a view

A cup of Turkish tea and a dessert with a sprinkle of green garnish are on a table, with a mosque visible in the background.

At one point during our walk here, I started to feel weak (this is why it’s important to stay hydrated and eat well), and I needed to eat something sweet. We were just passing by the mosque when we noticed the familiar Hafiz Mustafa store (map) and went right in.

I’m so happy we ended up here because it turns out they have this multi-story sitting area with direct views of the giant mosque! I had my dessert and coffee, plus got to enjoy these lovely impromptu views, how nice!

So just grab a dessert here and climb to the last floor. Apparently, it’s a hidden gem because we were alone in the middle of the day!

4. Sunset at Maiden Tower

author of the post takes a selfie by a waterfront with a small tower on an island in the background.

Not many postcard-perfect places are located on the Asian side of Istanbul, but the Maiden Tower (Kiz Kulesi) is undoubtedly one of them!

The 5th-century Maiden Tower sits on an islet just off the coast of Uskudar (map) and is another scenic landmark of Istanbul. It has even appeared in many Turkish and international movies, TV, and book series (think Hitman and James Bond, Agatha Christie’s works, etc.).

I don’t recommend visiting the actual tower (not much to see, it’s more beautiful when you look at it). Just sit nearby on the coast of Uskudar, where there are plenty of huge rocks by the water, and wait for the sunset.

We sat on the rocks for at least an hour here as the sun was setting down, and the sky kept changing before our eyes to these magical hues of orange. We had the view all for ourselves (well, not counting the cats that were photobombing us).

After you soak in all the views, take a boat back and enjoy the rest of the evening with a nice dinner either in Sultanahmet or around the Galata Tower area!

Day 4: Fener & Balat

A colorful street, author of the post standing by a building with greenery, and a canopy of vibrant umbrellas overhead.

On Day 4, I’m taking you to Istanbul’s most picturesque neighborhoods that somehow were under the radar for me during my first 3 trips to the city (inexcusable!!)

Fener was the main neighborhood of the Greek Orthodox community after the Ottomans conquered Constantinople in 1453. In fact, it’s where the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople is, which is basically the main religious center for all Orthodox Christians around the world.

Balat, on the other hand, used to be a Jewish neighborhood but was also home to the Armenian and Greek Orthodox population. Today, it’s one of Istanbul’s most diverse areas. You can see churches, synagogues, and mosques just steps from each other.

The easiest way to reach Fener is by tram line T5, which departs from Eminou. The tram stops just by the popular Rainbow Umbrella Street (map), from where you can start to explore!

A walk here takes around 55 minutes from Sultanahmet, but I recommend saving this option for the end if you still have the energy!

TIP: Book a half-day guided walking tour of Fener and Balat for less planning and more enjoyment!

1. Visit the Orthodox Patriarchate

A historic brick building with a domed roof stands beside a slender minaret. Banners and vehicles are in the foreground under a blue sky with clouds.

As you descend the T5 tram, the Ecumenical Patriarchate (map) will be just a short walk behind you, and you can start your visit from here.

There’s really not much to see here unless you’re a Christian Orthodox, but anyway, the visit shouldn’t take more than 30 minutes.

Then, you can continue walking back toward the center of the area where the rainbow umbrellas are.

2. Walk the narrow alleys of Balat & Fener

author of the post sitting on a cobblestone street, holding a water bottle, with colorful buildings and greenery in the background.

There are really no borders so you can’t tell when you cross from Balat to Fener, but basically Fener is the area around the Tram stop, and then as you walk towards the attractions, you’re already in Balat.

Pass by the Virgin Mary Orthodox Church (map) on your way from the rainbow street and get your camera out because, at this point, you’ll want to take pictures of everything!

The Colored Houses of Balat Street (map) will be just around the corner, and this is where you’ll see most of the tourists. But can you blame them? This street is the dream, I literally couldn’t decide which home color I liked more!

Next, you can see a few mosques that actually used to be Byzantine churches, like this one (map). From here, descend toward Manyasizade Street (map) for sights of pure, raw Istanbul.

Locals roaming the streets filled with small shops, cats running around, and calls for prayer coming from the mosque around the corner. Local immersion at its finest!

3. Take a break in a cozy, colorful café

Cozy patio scene with a kitten on a patterned blanket, a table holding a cup of tea, a glass of water, and a covered dish, set against a backdrop of buildings and outdoor seating.

Take all the time you want to walk around Balat, and then when your feet start to feel tired (I know they will, this neighborhood is incredibly beautiful but incredibly steep), grab a coffee in some of the nice cafés!

I have a thing for cozy and beautiful coffee places, and I don’t remember seeing a single not interesting café or restaurant in Balat! I’m telling you, the amount of colorful and cozy cafés here is insane. From this one (map) just by the rainbow stairs to this hidden gem (map) with the loveliest rooftop garden, and that’s not even the tip of the iceberg.

So take your time to relax, you’ll have just enough time to complete the rest of the itinerary for today.

4. See ex. Chora Church, now Kariye Mosque

Interior of a Byzantine-style building with high arched ceilings, decorative walls, and framed religious art. Natural light filters through a large central window.

NOTE: A good part of this walk, including later for the Walls of Constantinople, includes uphill climbing; have comfortable shoes, enough water, and make regular breaks.

After you’re done taking pictures of all the colorful Balat homes, head further West toward the Walls of Constantinople/ Istanbul (map).

On your way there, you’ll pass by what used to be one of the most beautiful Byzantine Churches in Constantinople, Chora Church (map).

This church shares the same fate as Hagia Sophia: it was built as a church, then turned into a mosque, then a museum, and in 2020 it became a mosque again.

Entry to the mosque is free, and you can still see some amazing Byzantine frescoes inside. The staff will want to give you a small but informative tour for around US$10, but this is not obligatory – you can just get in and look around for free.

5. Admire the iconic Walls of Constantinople

A narrow cobblestone street with parked van, lined by old stone buildings and bare trees. A minaret is visible in the background. Sparse pedestrian activity.

Take a steep 5-minute walk from the mosque, and you’ll make it to the ultimate treat for history bums. The Walls of Constantinople (map) are your authentic (for the good part) historical monuments dating from the 5th century!

These walls have 2 separate layers, one outer wall and one inner wall, with a terrace between them (and a moat), making it almost impossible for attackers to get in. For over 1,000 years, these impenetrable walls defended Constantinople from outsiders. The Ottomans finally conquered them in 1453 after a bloody 7-week siege (that Netflix show I introduced earlier really paints the picture).

A person in sunglasses and casual attire stands with one hand on a brick and stone archway structure.

Being a Constantinople nerd that I am (must be related to being born in the same city as Constantine the Great 😉), all I wanted was to touch those walls. When I finally did, I got chills!

As you walk the perimeter of the walls (around 5 km or 3 mi long), you’ll be able to clearly see which parts were renovated and which are authentic. This can be a long walk, so just follow your pace and stop at any point you want.

The sad part is that the area is really not well-up-kept, and it’s 100% local. You’ll find a few average cafés and restaurants (we were stuck in one for 2 hours as it started pouring rain), and really not much informative material on the walls. Do your history studying ahead!

6. Go back to the city center

A city street at dusk with cars, pedestrians, and birds. The sky shows a mix of clouds and a golden sunset.

Now Balat is quite far from the Sultanahmet. I suggest 2 options for going back to town: A quick metro ride (catch it here) or a really fun walk.

We decided to walk as we spent too much time sitting in the restaurant, and it was really nice! It took around 1 hour, and you pass through some major shopping streets that are definitely local-oriented.

I remember seeing dozens of bridal shops lined one next to another, and suddenly it hit me why so many brides from my country (Serbia) go shopping for their big day in Istanbul.

Anyway, you’ll also pass by tons of mosques and interesting shops and can see a whole new vibe of Istanbul, so I highly recommend it. You can take Fevzi Pasha Road (map) or any of the other parallel streets, they’re all full of life. Plus, metro lines run along one of these streets so you can always cut the walk short.

7. Romantic dinner to wrap up the stay

The writer of the post with her husband sitting at a table in a cozy room with patterned fabrics, enjoying tea from traditional glasses.

For the end of your trip, treat yourself to a nice romantic dinner with views of Bosphorus, because you absolutely deserve it after all this walking!

I recommend the Roof Mezze 360 (map) restaurant, it’s amazing. Just ask the reception staff in your hotel to make the reservation for you (best to do this one day ahead) and ask for a table by the window!

Aaand that’s it! Your memorable 4-day stay in Istanbul has come to an end.